When I first booked my dream trek I had Nyiragongo in mind, the angry, smoking giant of Virunga National Park that every volcano-lover dreams of climbing. I booked the trip through Viator (a Kwafrika Travel listing) with stars in my eyes and a pack full of expectations. A few days before departure, however, I received a calm but firm message from Kwafrika: Virunga National Park was not operational because of the M23 conflict in eastern Congo. My heart sank for a moment, but that’s when Veridique, manager and tour specialist at Kwafrika Travel, stepped in and offered an elegant, safer alternative: Mount Bisoke (also called Visoke) in neighbouring Rwanda.
Veridique explained that the Mount Bisoke option came with a bonus few people anticipate, a real, if low-probability, chance to encounter mountain gorillas during the ascent or descent. The trekking permit for Mount Bisoke was reasonable (about 100 USD), and while it didn’t replace a formal gorilla permit (those gorilla permits in Rwanda can be around 1,500 USD), he reminded me that sometimes luck and proximity to gorilla families on the trail can provide extraordinary sightings without the hefty fee. It sounded almost too good to be true: trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda without paying the full gorilla-permit price. I said yes.
The three-day Kwafrika Travel itinerary was beautifully arranged: a quick Kigali city tour on arrival, a scenic transfer to Musanze and a comfortable night at the Gorilla Volcano Hotel, the Bisoke hike the following day, and cultural visits including the Dian Fossey campus, the Gorilla Guardians village, and a tranquil boat ride on Burera and Ruhondo before heading back to Kigali, all the elements of nature, history and culture neatly stitched together.
On the day of hiking, our group was more than ten people, a lively, chatty mix of travellers, and we set off early on day two for the climb. Estimic, our guide and driver, immediately proved to be a highlight of the trip. He wasn’t just a guide who kept an eye on the trail; he was an encyclopaedia on wheels. Every time we passed a farm or a roadside scene he sensed curiosity and would stop, explain, or point out something remarkable, a farming technique, a plant used in local medicine, or a family tending their fields. Estimic’s blend of patience, humour and sharp local knowledge made the whole journey feel like travelling with a friend who also happened to be an expert.
The hike up Mount Bisoke itself is spectacular: dense bamboo groves give way to misty alpine meadows, and eventually you reach the crater lake at the summit, a quiet, almost sacred spot where the world below seems distilled into silence. The climb is challenging in places but immensely rewarding, and the scenery at 3,711 metres is worth every breath. As we crested the ridge and began our descent, a hush fell over the group. Estimic motioned for us to stop and very gently guided our footsteps, there they were: a small family of mountain gorillas moving through the understorey, barely twenty metres from the trail. We watched, hearts pounding, as silverback, mother and youngsters moved with a calm dignity that felt otherworldly.
That moment seeing gorillas on our return from Mount Bisoke, is the story I’ll tell for the rest of my life. I kept thinking about how rare and generous that slice of fortune felt: trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda without having paid the pricey gorilla permit, simply because the Bisoke trail sometimes intersects with gorilla ranges. Still, Veridique’s warning was wise: the probability is low, and you shouldn’t plan your entire trip expecting a sighting. But if luck smiles on you, the value is astronomical in every sense.
Beyond the wildlife, the cultural program rounded the trip into something holistic and meaningful. The brief Kigali city tour introduced us to Rwanda’s resilient history and tidy streets; visiting the Dian Fossey campus brought a poignant perspective on conservation work; the Gorilla Guardians village offered music, dance and craft that felt like a true exchange rather than a show. The boat ride on the twin lakes : Burera and Ruhondo was an unexpected, peaceful counterpoint to the intensity of the climb: fishermen in pirogues, volcano silhouettes on the horizon, the kind of slow magic that lodges in memory.
Practical notes for fellow travellers: Kwafrika Travel package includes private transport, a professional guide, breakfasts, transfers and the park entrance fees for the planned visits, which made logistics effortless. Items like water, hiking gear, some meals and the usual extras are excluded, so pack accordingly. The Gorilla Volcano Hotel in Musanze is a comfortable base, simple, well located, with great views of the Virunga chain.
If you’re weighing options and were initially tempted by Virunga’s Nyiragongo but are concerned about safety or access, consider this: during our rerouted trip I discovered that Rwanda is extraordinarily clean, peaceful and organized. The roads are good, the people warm, and the tourism infrastructure is professional. For those who want the chance, however slim, of encountering gorillas without the formal gorilla-permit price tag, a Mount Bisoke hike can offer that serendipity. In short: trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda can be an unexpected, life-changing bonus to a volcanic hike.
Would I recommend this trip? A resounding yes. The combination of a responsible local operator (shout-out to Veridique and the Kwafrika team), an outstanding guide in Estimic, rich cultural stops and the pure thrill of the Bisoke crater makes for perfect short-break travel from Kigali. If you’re open to alternatives, flexible and respectful of nature, you might leave with a story like mine: one of the rare groups who climbed Mount Bisoke, breathed alpine air, and, on the walk down, were privileged to glance into the eyes of mountain gorillas. That kind of luck, and that kind of guide, are worth the trip.
If you’re planning something similar, remember this line and keep it close: trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda is possible in unexpected ways, and when it happens, it’s unforgettable. trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda can be the surprise of a volcano climb, and for me, it was the surprise that made the whole trip perfect. trekking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda, try your luck, travel carefully, and above all, go with good people.
